Question: Observations at a shallow sandy beach show that even though the waves several hundred yards out from the shore are not parallel to the beach,
Observations at a shallow sandy beach show that even though the waves several hundred yards out from the shore are not parallel to the beach, the waves often "break" on the beach nearly parallel to the shore as indicated in Fig. P10.9. Explain this behavior based on the wave speed \(c=(g y)^{1 / 2}\).
Figure P10.9

Ocean Wave crest Beach:
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