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1 Refraction and Shoaling In class, it was shown that over straight parallel depth contours ( i . e . , h is dependant only
Refraction and Shoaling
In class, it was shown that over straight parallel depth contours ie is dependant only on and constant, where is the energy density, is the group velocity, and is the incidence angle.
a Show that the effect of variable is to reduce as the waves propagate shoreward decreases due to refraction
b Show that in shallow water small at sufficiently large incidence angles eg close to degree the refraction effect overcomes the shoaling effect.
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