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1 Refraction and Shoaling In class, it was shown that over straight parallel depth contours ( i . e . , h is dependant only

1 Refraction and Shoaling
In class, it was shown that over straight parallel depth contours (i.e.,h is dependant only on x and sinc= constant, where E is the energy density, cg is the group velocity, and is the incidence angle.
(a) Show that the effect of variable is to reduce Ecg as the waves propagate shore-ward ( decreases due to refraction).
(b) Show that in shallow water (small kh) at sufficiently large incidence angles (e.g., close to 90 degree) the refraction effect overcomes the shoaling effect.
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